http://www.flickr.com/photos/taltraveltips/sets/72157610379355503/
1/25/08-1/26/08
I saw a Samantha Brown “Passport to Europe” show on the Travel Channel about Edinburgh, Scotland, and I knew that I wanted to go. Since we didn’t have a car, our choices were a train (4 hours), bus (8 hours) or plane (hour and a half). Planes and trains are generally more expensive especially last minute so we decided to do an overnight bus ride both ways. That’s right an overnight bus. But both ways it only cost about 50 pounds (~$100 at the time) plus we didn’t have to pay for a hostel Friday or Sunday night.
We left London around 11 p.m. Friday and arrived in Edinburgh at about 8 a.m. We stayed at Smart City Hostel (www.smartcityhostels.com) located right off the famous Royal Mile. The Royal Mile sits in the heart of Old Town high on a hill with beautiful cobblestone streets. At the one end of the mile (bottom of the hill), is the Palace of Holyroodhouse (www.royalcollection.org.uk/default.asp?action=article&ID=36) that is the queen’s residence in Scotland. At the other side of the mile (top of hill) is Edinburgh Castle.
We couldn’t check into our hostel yet so we put our luggage in a storage closet and got some breakfast at their café. There was no comparing Dublin’s hostel to Edinburgh’s. Smart City Hostel is a new group that promises five start hostel accommodation and prices are competitive.
The whole hostel was clean and it didn’t feel like a hostel. There was a modern bar, café and a personal locker in the room. Also staff members were more than happy to answer any question about the city. I know I’m not describing it well but if you want to stay cheaply in Old Town, this is the place to book.
After getting a bite to eat, we decided to sight see because our room was not ready yet. Our hostel was right in the middle of the Royal Mile but we decided to walk up to the castle (www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk) before it got crowded. Prices vary throughout the year so if you want an up to date price check out their website. If you book your ticket online you can bypass lines (or beat the queue as the English say).
I was unimpressed with the inside of the castle. It’s hard to top the outside. Because the castle is at the top of Old Town’s hill, great views of the city can be seen. The best view of the castle are down below in New Town because the castle sits on top of a exposed rock mound that adds to the mystique of the castle.
One inside highlight is the Great Hall with armor and weapons galore set against red walls and arched wooden roofs. St. Margaret’s Chapel is also something to see because it’s the city’s oldest building. You can see where the Scottish royal family lived in the Royal Palace where the crown jewels are on display.
Another famous element of the castle is the One O’Clock gun in the battery area with all the canons. The gun has been fired everyday since 1861 except during WWII. The tradition used to be a signal for ships. The area also provides great views of the city.
My roommates wanted to shop so we went to New Town on Princes Street, which sits below Old Town. We first got a quick lunch and after I realized my roommates wanted to shop, sleep and not really sight see, I told them I would catch up with them later.
I had my list of what I wanted to see and I walked to the opposite end of the Royal Mile because I wanted to climb Calton Hill. The hill, which is next to the queen’s palace, offers a better view than the castle because it includes the castle. The climb isn’t too steep and several monuments are on the hill. I decided to pay 3 pounds to climb the 170 steps up Nelson’s Monument, which is on the hill. This monument allows you to get as high as you can on the hill. You can also see King Arthur’s seat from the hill, which offers another great view of the city. I heard that it’s a hard climb but worth it.
After descending Calton Hill, I went to the Palace of Holyroodhouse to see her majesty’s home in Scotland (http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/default.asp?action=article&ID=36). With a self-guided audio tour, visitors can immerse themselves in the royal apartments. The palace might be best known as the home of Mary, Queen of Scots.
The castle was neat to see but my favorite part was Holyrood Abbey, which is at the end of the audio tour. The 12th century abbey is now in ruins but you are allowed to walk in it as though it was not in ruins. The abbey was a pleasant surprise to explore after seeing the royal apartments.
Also, next to the palace is the Queen’s Gallery. I didn’t go inside but it has changing exhibitions of royal collections (www.royalcollection.org.uk/default.asp?action=article&ID=37). When I was there, the exhibition was Bruegel to Rubens: Masters of Flemish Painting. The gallery is another price on top of the palace but you can by a combined ticket to save money.
Before I arrived in Edinburgh, I researched some side trips and stumbled upon Rosslyn Chapel where some of the Da Vinci Code was filmed (www.rosslynchapel.org.uk). The chapel is only 7 miles from Edinburgh and is easy to reach by bus. Take Lothian Buses service #15 (not 15A). Timetables can be found at www.lothianbuses.co.uk. I took the bus from St. Andrew’s Square, which is New Town. From there it’s about a 20 or 30 minute ride. Also make sure you have exact change because the driver does not have change. It was only a pound to ride and luckily I made change for my 2 pound coin with someone behind me in line.
On the bus ride, I heard a couple speaking about the chapel and I started to talk with them. I thought it would be good to have others help figure out where we were going. Steve and Anne were sweet Americans traveling in the UK. I started asking questions since they had traveled around. They talked about St. Andrews and I became intrigued because I wanted to visit there. I wanted to see how to get there and if the trip was even possible in one day. After some helpful tips we arrived to the Rosslyn stop. By this time it was drizzling so we followed the signs and made the short five minute walk to the chapel.
I paid a hefty 6 pounds (7.50 for adults) in the gift shop and then we walked over to the chapel, completed in 1484. It was beautiful with its stone carvings but I didn’t think it would be so small. I hadn’t seen the Da Vinci Code in a while so I didn’t recognize anything from the movie.
During my research on how to visit the chapel, I missed that the chapel was under renovation. It was stated on their website but you had to scroll down. So I couldn’t see the outside of the chapel well because a “metal canopy” surrounded it. The canopy is helping to dry out the stonework. Although you couldn’t see the outside well, you could go up the canopy and see the stonework up close. I walked up there with Steve who is a professor at Bloomsburg University. We then met Anne in the graveyard to look around.
We left to catch the next bus and we made it back to the city around 5. We got off at the stop closest to the Waverley train station. As I said, it was a pleasure meeting Steve and Anne. It’s always nice to meet people while you’re traveling especially if you are alone. I exchanged an e-mail with Steve and he called me a “well organized American” and “woman of action” when I told him that I went to St. Andrews the next day.
I felt bad because they always had bad weather during their trip. They got poured on in St. Andrews, and I was so lucky all semester and never faced weather problems. I’ve never spoken to them since but I hope they’re doing well.
After saying goodbye to my new friends, I went into the train station to buy a ticket to St. Andrews. Because I went on a Sunday, this was the best option because the buses didn’t run as much. So I decided to take the train, and it gave me the flexibility to come back whenever.
After buying the ticket, I met my roommates at the hostel. They were enjoying themselves in our room. We decided to get a drink at the hostel bar before going out. I had my first and only spot of whisky (diluted with water) that I did not enjoy, and then I had a Tiger beer.
Emily heard from a work friend that there was a famous bangers ‘n mash place in town. Bangers ‘n mash is just mash potatoes and sausage. It’s not the healthiest thing but we wanted to eat authentic. We had our hostel look it up and we made the short walk to Monster Mash (mostermashcafe.co.uk).
It was decently crowded but they luckily had room for the four of us. The menu is simple but delicious if you are in the mood for bangers ‘n mash. You get to pick your sausage, mash and gravy. I believe I had plain pork sausage, grainy mustard mash and onion gravy. It was so good and so filling.
After one or two more drinks around town, we went to bed. I had to get a good night sleep because my train to St. Andrews was early in the morning (before anyone was going to wake up in my room).
1/27/08
At my hostel, I quietly dressed in the dark and went to Edinburgh’s Waverly station. My train was at about 8 a.m. so I grabbed breakfast at the station. If you do travel to St. Andrews by train, the second part of your journey will be by bus. If you buy your ticket at Waverly just say you want the train/bus ticket to St. Andrews. The train will take you to Leuchars (about an hour ride) and then a bus stop is right outside the small station.
I read the bus times in Leuchars and waited for my bus. Bus drivers are usually nice and I checked to make sure the bus went to St. Andrews. After he confirmed, he told me drive was only about 20 minutes.
We arrived at the bus station and I followed the signs to the city center. The town was very quiet. It was Sunday morning after all. I never found the tourist center I was looking for but I luckily ran into a young man. I asked him to direct me toward the castle and cathedral. He pointed but didn’t seem very sure. I took his suggestion anyway because I had no idea where I was going. I still hadn’t quite learned the Garmin yet.
I first ran into the ruins of St. Andrews Cathedral (www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/index/places/propertyresults/propertyoverview.htm?PropID=PL_249&PropName=St%20Andrews%20Cathedral). If you are on a budget, exploring the ruins are free. But I would suggest going inside the onsite museum and buy a combo cathedral/castle ticket for 7.05 pounds for adults (5.09 for students). For the cathedral, this allows you to see the medieval relics inside the museum and climb St. Rules Tower for an excellent view of the city. Luckily the attendant had a map of the town and was very helpful with directions.
Take time to explore the cathedral grounds that lie right on the coast. The cathedral and tower date back to the 1100s. You will use a coin that the museum attendant gives you to ascend the tower. The tower is a steep and narrow climb but the views are worth it to the see the golf courses (way in distance), town, cathedral and castle from above.
After taking my time at the cathedral, I walked to St. Andrews Castle (http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/index/places/propertyresults/propertyoverview.htm?PropID=PL_248&PropName=St%20Andrews%20Castle). It is on the coast too and is not far away from the cathedral. The castle is also in ruins but I liked the vast area of the cathedral better. But the castle provides better views of the water because the cathedral has big walls by the coast. There is even a patch of beach you can go too at the castle.
The castle dates to about 1200 and it was in ruins by the late 1500s from a siege. You first walk through Hamilton’s Façade and then enter into the open space of the ruins. The Bottle Dungeon is where a murdered cardinal was stored during a siege in 1546. You can even visit the Mine and Counter-Mine. It is safe enough to explore but not very accessible. Make sure you don’t mind getting a little dirty and that you are a flexible mover because they are not always steps and ceilings are low. The mines let you step back into history to experience what it might have been like during a siege.
Nearby is the university further in town and I decided to quickly walk by. A famous part of the University of St. Andrews is St. Salvator’s Chapel and its tower. I walked by a quad and then made my way to the famous golf courses, which are on the other side of town.
I used my map and 20 minutes later I arrived at the famous 18th hole of the Old Course, one of seven courses of St. Andrews (www.standrews.org.uk). I only wish my dad (an avid golf player) could have been with me because St. Andrews is the home of golf. If coming from the city, the 18th hole is the first part of their courses that you’ll run into. I stood on the famous Swilken Bridge where golfing greats like Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus have stood.
Since my dad loves golf I knew I had to get some souvenirs. I walked into the Old Course shop (theoldcourseshop.com) and was blown away by how expensive everything was. I thought golf balls would be the best gift. I got one three pack of the 2010 British Open balls and one three pack of just Old Course balls. Online it lists each pack as 12 pounds but I believe I spent about 40 pounds so I hope I wasn’t ripped off at the time!
I took a photo of the Royal and Ancient Club House and grabbed a sandwich at a grocery store in town. I walked to the bus station to head back. By the time I got to Edinburgh it was about 3 p.m. All that was left was to explore a few museums.
I first went to the National Museum of Scotland in Old Town, which was free and very crowded. The top of the museum has a terrace where you can get great views of the city and castle. I quickly explored the museum but it offers artifacts for lovers of any time period from 8000BC to modern times. Most of the artifacts are Scottish-centered and the Lewis chess pieces are one highlight of the museum. Another is a replica of Dolly the sheep. She was the first sheep cloned in 1996 and it happened just outside Edinburgh.
I then called to wish my grandfather a happy 78th birthday by the National Gallery. I remember how shocked he was to hear from me. He wasn’t expecting an overseas call that day.
The National Gallery is in New Town, which is also free and near the train station. It has pieces from the Renaissance to the 19th century, most of which are paintings. I was shocked by the number of famous painters: Raphael, El Greco, Van Gogh, Monet and Rembrandt to say a few. Even the museum building is beautiful inside and out dating back to the early 1800s.
After randomly meeting people who knew Kristen, whom I interned with at Drapers (she is a Mizzou student too), I walked along Princes Street toward the castle while the sun set. I got a couple cool photos from the lighting. To my left below was the Princes Street Gardens. I never got a chance to walk through it but you never have time for everything. Next time.
I walked through New Town a little bit and wandered through Charlotte Square. As I made my way back to Princes Street I got to see the castle at night, which was a neat sight. I crossed North Bridge (which goes over the train station) to make it back to Old Town. I took a blurry night photo of the outside of my hostel and met up with my roommates. We gathered our bags and had a great cheeseburger at Tron Tavern (in Hunter’s Square just off the royal mile). I needed something American at that point. It was a cool pub with several floors and different bars. Our food did take a while though. I think the order never was placed up and they had to order for us again.
With fully bellies we walked to the bus station to the dreaded overnight bus. That night involved a snoring man and loud French people. I said never again will I take an overnight bus. But I was wrong. And little did I know that I would make it back to Scotland later that semester.
1/28/08
We got back to our flat and still had about an hour before we had to leave for work. Emily showered and got a little nap. I got the shower after her and never feel asleep until that night. I surprisingly held up well throughout the day.